Proscovia

As one of a small group of Africans incarcerated in Kathmandu, Teo had a good handle on who the others were, and where they were from. Not surprisingly, in an environment full of Nepalese the Africans were pretty tight. They shared food, cooked together and generally just supported eachother given their similar backgrounds and at times same language. Well, not long before I was leaving the first time Teo told me about a Ugandan woman who had been in prison for some time; almost a year I believe. Being a veteran, and the compassionate guy that he was, he had reached out to her by letter, and through same had come to know that she had had no visitors or support in the time she had been in prison. Knowing what visitors meant to him he felt badly for her and wanted her to have the same. So he suggested that I go visit her and I did just that. I ventured over to the women's prison one day and met her.

First, I was shocked at the difference between the men's and women's jails. The visitors area on Teo's side was outdoors and quite a nice environment. Visitors sat opposite prisoners on concrete benches with a low grate-like structure in between. In the same area there was some green space, lots of places to sit and there were always people lounging around. So on the men's side, the visitor environment was open, friendly and inviting. They would rarely tell you that your time was up, unless it was really busy, so Teo and I would chat for close to 2 hours sometimes.

I should add that in Nepal prisoners essentially run the show. I'm not sure how the selection process works, but prisoners are given jobs (foreigners excluded), including security, and they manage all aspects of life inside. The police-type security handle the outer checkpoints and in general only intervene if absolutely necessary.Teo had told me that there was rarely any violence in the prison and that it was a pretty calm, peaceful place totally unlike prisons back home (and my source for this comment the very informative show that I love, Lockup! The prisoners that work get special privileges which they call "facilities" like monthly outings where they can leave for the day and pretty much do whatever they want which for many means drinking and girls. At least that was what Surendra's outings consisted of as he worked in the prison. Although he lost his privileges at one point while I was there as they had found out he had been drinking. So I guess that technically is a no-no.

The women's side on the other hand was very small, closed in, dark and primitive looking. Prisoners came from the back and climbed through a half door of a fully barred door and between the prisoners and visitors there were full bars rather than a half fence. Being almost all police, the guards weren't friendly and visits were short even if it wasn't busy. There was no tea or drinks. It was like night and day and it made me mad!

Proscovia and I hit it off from the beginning. She was just the most lovely, sweet person; so cheerful and appreciative. I was sorry I hadn't started visiting her sooner. She told me how she had ended up in prison in Nepal; however, you could tell that it made her nervous to talk about it given that her case was still before the courts. Her shame was also evident.

Proscovia explained that back in Uganda she was a single mother to Nicole, age 7 at the time. Her mother, who was her sole support, became sick and passed away. Then she lost her job and was essentially destitute. So when somebody offered her a pretty substantial sum to carry some drugs, she accepted knowing there was a risk, but also knowing that if she was successful she would have enough money to start up her own business to support her and her daughter. Well, you know how it turned out. One can certainly judge her for the decision she made but until a person experiences that type of desperation; being a single parent and destitute without support, how do you know what you would do?

The events following her arrest were similar to Teo's, in that she couldn't understand the language, the case against her or the legal process involved. She had some money at that time, likely an advance that she had received, which she used to hire lawyers who all took more and more money yet did nothing of substance for her case. One day I went to meet her lawyer the day her case was to be heard but it was adjourned for some unknown reason. The lawyer seemed more interested in having contact with me than he did her case.

I was horrified hearing about the conditions that she was dealing with inside the prison. Thankfully she had some money to buy a bed when she came to prison as one isn't given to you. Otherwise you would be sleeping on concrete. The worst thing she told me was that the prison was overrun with rats to the point that she had to tie her food items to the roof so they wouldn't get into them. I would die, literally. One day I came to visit and she was so upset as the thermos she had to keep her rice had been knocked over and broken by the rats and was useless. I bought her another one as something simple like that was essential to life in there.

I started passing along emails between her and her uncle who was caring for Nicole, which was more precious to her than any snacks or items I brought her. She was worried at that time as her uncle Alfred had 5 of his own children and she wasn't sure if he could continue to care for Nicole. Nicole hadn't been told that her mother was in prison; just that she was abroad, so hearing news from her was so important.

I liked and felt for Proscovia so much that I talked about her at Basecamp and brought friends to visit her with me. Around this time Basecamp was interested in visiting a different female prisoner as the Thai girl wasn't the most engaging person. Those that met Teo had a far more enriching experience than with her. So I brought the Basecamp Coordinator to meet Proscovia, and she too was taken with her which led to Basecamp starting to see her for their monthly orientations. This meant a regular source of visitors for Proscovia, gifts of basic necessities as well as treats, and most importantly a way for her to communicate with her friends (including me), her family and daughter. This is something I am most proud of out of all the volunteer work I have done, as Basecamp taking Proscovia on meant that she now had a lifeline from prison in Nepal to the world.

Like with Teo, when I came back to Kathmandu the two times after I met her, the reunions were sweet and the goodbyes were met with tears. Visiting was more challenging by this point as the prison had changed its rules and no longer allowed you to see two people in one day. That meant that one day I would go see Teo and the other Proscovia. In between the 2nd and 3rd trip Proscovia was sentenced to 16.5 years. She of course was devastated by her sentence yet was determined to appeal. The lawyers and lawyer bills continued yet by this time her money had pretty much run out.

Since 2009 we have stayed in contact by email mainly through Basecamp volunteers. I have filled her in on my gallivanting (which has led to guilt trips about why I haven't come back to Nepal), as well as friendships, relationships etc. just like girlfriends would do. She has kept me in the loop about her family, case, prison news and gossip, including about my Didi, an older prisoner/staff who I quite liked. I had initially been scared of the woman as she never looked very nice but she eventually warmed up to me. I brought her a scarf before I left and she quite liked that. You always want to stay on the good side of those that work there!

It has become more and more tough to keep in contact with her though as Basecamp staff and volunteers have been inconsistent. In January 2012 I sent her a message that I was in India and that I was coming to see her in March. I was hoping that hearing this news would give her something to look forward to. Although I love India, I couldn't wait to come back to Nepal, in part because of her. It's a good thing that it's cold there between January and March otherwise I probably would have come sooner!

Some time before coming to Nepal I learnt that the prison rules had changed and that you were no longer allowed to visit a prisoner unless you were from the same country. Gone were the days where you could just show up and pick a prisoner from looking at the list posted on the wall. I eventually learnt that the rule change had come about as a result of a shooting that had occurred months back. A man had come to the prison to see a prisoner and shot him which was apparently based on his country/political affiliation. As a result there was a clamp down and of course it was foreign prisoners who would be affected.

I became quite worried that I wouldn't be able to see her especially after hearing that a friend and former volunteer had returned to Kathmandu and been denied access to her. He had only been allowed to pass along some gifts to her, and she some items for him to send for her. I was determined though and was willing to do anything short of selling my body to get in :) I was even willing to bribe if I had to!

Well thankfully one of my letters to Basecamp was answered by their new coordinator Bikash, who was absolutely lovely, offering to help me. He had just been to speak with the Jailer (Warden) to get permission for his volunteers to get access during orientation as they had always done and the Jailer had granted one person a visit. Through that volunteer I got an email from Proscovia and in same in was clear she hadn't received my message as she was anxious for some news from me as well as other friends. She also spoke of being very upset about not being able to visit our friend Sasha who had come.

So I arrived in Kathmandu at the end of March, and instantly felt Proscovia's presence. I was so anxious to get to the prison and find out if I could get in. The following day I called Bikash to see if he was still willing to help me and thankfully he was. We met that day and it turns out I had met him 3 years earlier through some mutual friends. He presented as just the nicest guy and despite his busy schedule was more than willing to help.

The following day we met at the entrance of the prison. It was quite nostalgic coming back, although on the way I noticed that a fair bit had changed in the area to the point that I second guessed if I was in the right place. There was a brand new mall close by and in general it just seemed more developed. As I waited for Bikash to arrive I got more nervous. I was so close and very worried that I would be denied. Thinking that I may not get in, yes Ms Debbie Downer, all I had brought for Proscovia that day was a special book that I had waited for 3 years to give her. When I was last in Nepal I had given her the White Masai to read. I loved this true story about a European woman who had travelled to Kenya and fallen in love with a Masai warrior. She married him, had a child and lived amongst the Masai for years. It is an amazing story that I shared with Proscovia as she had gone to school in Kenya when she was younger. Given that I had travelled to Kenya she and I had that in common so the story was special to both of us. Well, there is a sequel to the story, where the woman goes back to Kenya many years later and is reunited with her Masai family. I had told Proscovia about the book in emails so was anxious to give it to her for her to read herself.

Anyway, Bikash arrived and a couple minutes later we walked into the Jailer's office, just like that. I was so nervous! Bikash said a few words to him in Nepali after which he asked me what my relationship was to Proscovia. I had planned some things to say but I think I only stammered a couple things out, after which I heard him say "two times a week" as he answered the phone (I believe he was telling security about my special permission). I certainly had hoped for more open access, but wasn't going to challenge it as it was a miracle that I was getting in at all! So we both graciously thanked him and left with me in shock at how simple it was. Well, with Bikash's help that is. I could have kissed that guy!

Then we stopped at the office where you have to check in and with your passport if you are a foreigner. You never had to do this before. Well the office closed early on Fridays which meant no visit that day. But good ol' Bikash ended up talking to some guys and all of a sudden we were signing in to visit! The system here is so funny! We finished that then went on to main security for the first search. This section had also changed since I was last there. It was now enclosed and more official looking. I had to leave my phone and bank cards (that didn't feel so good..next time I'm leaving them at the hotel). Then on to the female police officers to be searched. I was so anxious to get in at this point and wouldn't you know had a Curious Georgia guard who was suuuper curious about all my things that it took forever. She flipped through every page of the pictures in the book and at times showed it to me or a fellow guard when she found something interesting. I could have throttled her but kept my cool. Then they went through everything in my purse asking me what many things were. I had to leave contact solution with them but yet they didn't look twice at my pill bottle. Made no sense! After a real good frisk I was through. Then after getting our visit slip at another checkpoint we walked out of the compound down the dirt road to the women's jail. I was elated at this point as I was minutes away from seeing her!

As per tradition, on the way I stopped to get some Lays chips and pop for all of us. And then we were there. As usual there were lots of guards sitting around outside and like before they weren't friendly. I did get a smile from one woman who I recognized but that was it. Then the search started all over again given that you have left the prison compound since the first search. Why they search the first time I have no idea. A make work project perhaps. This time I lost a couple more things; my passport and pill bottle. Then I had to go inside a dark, concrete room for yet another frisk; this one pretttttty thorough! Then finally we were in, seated and waiting for Proscovia!! While I waited, there came my Didi (which means Sister) who I had learnt was now the boss of the place. She clearly remembered me as she smiled (something rare for her) and gave me a "tkcha" (ok) when I asked her in Nepali how she was. Here's hoping our special relationship will translate into more time with Proscovia!

And then I saw her, coming from the back through the iron gate. She saw me and looked incredibly shocked. I went over to hug her during which she still seemed in shock. Then she started to bawl. She went to sit, and was almost hysterical, with her hands over her face, saying over and over that she couldn't believe it, that it was a dream. Oh did she cry! I of course wasn't so dry eyed myself; it was quite an emotional moment. Thankfully I had warned poor Bikash that there would be tears, although I didn't expect to that degree. I'm sure he was a tad uncomfortable, poor guy. It was such a scene that everyone gathered around watching what was going on. Once she calmed down she told me that the others were asking her why she was crying and smiling at the same time. They were clearly tears of happiness. You can imagine after months of no visitors and minimal contact with the outside world, to see me; her oldest friend, without any warning, what shock, surprise and joy. It was truly a beautiful moment that I won't ever forget.

Once the shock wore off and the tears stopped flowing we were able to have a visit. She had lost weight since I was last here; she said because of the depression that set in after her sentence. Otherwise that same big smile was there which never went away the entire visit. She talked a mile a minute the whole time and didn't even have her chips. I got heck again for going to Peru so often rather than coming to Nepal but otherwise the visit was simply sweet. When we were told time was up she looked at them like she used to, with a look that said 'please just a little longer?' It didn't work but they did have some compassion for her that day allowing us another hug. She went through that iron gate still smiling, saying that she still couldn't believe I was here, and that she was going to sleep really well that night.

I left feeling so relieved and happy; or I should say elated. What an amazing feeling to reunite with someone you care about after so long, and for your presence to bring them such joy. I was on top of the world!

Bikash suggested that for the first week I go twice as allowed, and then after that to perhaps try for more. I'm determined to charm the guys at the first security point which control my ticket in. We'll see how it goes :)