Train training

Before coming to Mumbai, Sanjeev's brother Subu explained to me with amusement that when you take a train in Mumbai you don't have to do anything but stand in front of the door and people will push you in, and push you out.

On the first day in Mumbai, Shiva and I took the bus everywhere as he wanted me to get used to them. After experiencing as much as 1.5 hour trips throughout the city, the following day the plan changed to tackling the trains. The "program" for that day was to head from where we were staying in North Mumbai, to South Mumbai where I would be volunteering, to look for a place for me to stay.

Once at the train station the plan was that I would go into the women's car, while Shiva would go into the men's (as the women's cars are less crowded and I would have a better chance of getting on) and we would meet at our destination, which easily enough was the last stop. Shiva prepared himself for battle (short of doing some warm up exercises), giving me his money in case of pickpocketing which is common on a crowded train, and a package he had been carrying so that both of his hands would be free. He did this because the women's cars were typically less crowded.

As we waited for the train the crowd began to get bigger and bigger (have I mentioned that Mumbai has more than 18 million people?) and I started to have the feeling I had when I had to run to get the ticket for the animal reserve. I needed to get a spot in this car! So the train pulls up, I spot a door and make a dash for it. There wasn't much dashing involved though as it was already full with barely a few spare inches for me. But I made my way in, or rather I was pushed in as Subu had forewarned, to, brace yourselves..the entrance of the door! I hung on to my place, half in, half out of the train while pure madness went on all around me. Women behind me were pushing to get in and those on the inside were being jostled and trampled including a fragile old woman who sadly was amongst the chaos. This went on for what seemed liked minutes, although it was probably less than one, and then the train was off with me holding on for dear life.

I eventually noticed that on one side of the door there was a line of women facing the way out, clearly getting off soon. I was in their way, facing them. One girl asked me where I was getting off and when I told her the last stop, she said "go inside." I kind of chuckled and said "where?" There was absolutely no room to manouver anywhere. Again she said "go inside" and somehow, someway, the heavens parted and I jostled my way into the actual car. Inside it was less crowded and quite the sight with tons of steel hand rails on the ceiling. I couldn't believe how many there were! It was testament to how many more human beings could and do fit into that car. After I made it in it was pretty smooth sailing from there. I actually even got to sit for awhile. But I have to admit that after those chaotic first couple of minutes I got thinking that maybe a month was a little too long to stay in Mumbai (like 3 weeks too long!). Perhaps I would need to come up with a different plan..

Once off I met up with Shiva and we compared battle stories. He told me with certainty that I would never have got into the men's car. It was simply too crowded. I was impressed with his train skills until sometime after when I noticed that he had sent me an "are you ok?" text while on the train. Made me wonder how he could have managed that if it was as crowded as he had made me believe :)

So we went on with our day which focused on finding me a place to stay. Shiva was very concerned about this and wanted to make sure I had a good place before he left that night. This man is Salt of the Earth I tell you! Thanks to the Lonely Planet AKA Gringo Bible as my friend David calls it, I found a place in Colaba which is close to the ocean and tourist attractions, and with a lot of foreigners which made me feel comfortable given it will be safer after dark. Plus, the area is an example of why I like Mumbai; it is a nice blend of modern, and real India, with a cinema close by, McDs, stores like The Body Shop, United Colours of Benetton etc. and the great local stuff as well like cheap restaurants, fruit stands etc. So I felt good about the hotel, area and experiencing a contrast from the Indian-only suburb that that I had lived in in Mysore.

On the way back we first tried for a bus but waited forever and one didn't come. So the plan changed to first a bus, then walk followed by a train. Boy did I get some exercise keeping up with Shiva who was in a rush to catch his overnight train. I was stretching those legs but was still steps behind. It reminded me of when I would walk with my mom when I was younger, trailing behind her which would annoy her. She would say "are you going to walk with me or behind me?!" Some things never change...

So we get to the train station and prepare again to board. This time the plan was for us to travel together (in a men's car) given that the train would be empty as it was just starting out. I was relieved to have him with me for support after the morning ride! The train approached and we dashed into a car. I made it in first, then heard Shiva yell at me to go to the right. So I raced over, skidding and throwing myself down onto a seat while a bunch of men were doing the same thing. And then as quickly as the chaos had started all was calm again as the goal had been accomplished; seats by the window/cool breeze. Then all there was to do was watch the poor saps that got on after and had to stand. I couldn't help but laugh at how crazy the event was; it felt like that tuk tuk race all over again! And yet this is just survival in Mumbai..

We sat and relaxed as the train continued, but then the train car started to fill up and as the number of people increased, so did my anxiety. I started to realize that at some point we would have to get out, and as the only woman in the car I was sure to get molested as is common in India, hence the segregated cars. Shiva told me not to worry that he would be behind me shielding the way but I knew that wouldn't work as he needed to plow the way through for the both of us. I was nervous, not gonna lie, about being able to get through the crowd in time to get off, and secondly not being manhandled in the process. I giggled nervously explaining to Shiva what FML meant as this surely was one of those moments!

By this time the car was jam packed with no room to move; men with their arms up holding hand rails all over the place. Let's just say that summer on a Mumbai train isn't the best smelling environment I've been in. As our stop approached I reluctantly got up, and we slowly inched our way out. As we did I kept turning my head trying to see all those around me, and making eye contact as if to say "touch me and you're dead!" At one point I saw a man near me who had been staring at me intensely the whole time on the train. He was in pinching distance and I could just see that burning desire to seize the opportunity, but I smiled at him, he smiled back and I slithered out like a cobra, without one touch, pinch or grab. It was a miracle!!!! Once safely outside I clapped and pumped my fists in celebration of my accomplishment!

Nevertheless, I think I'll still try take the bus from now on   :)