The Andaman Islands

After a lot of vacillating back and forth, typical for me, I decided to go to the Andaman Islands. These islands are between Thailand and India, belong to India, and are controlled by the military. You need a permit to enter and they are very strict about where you can and cannot go. Whole islands are off base especially tribal areas. The pictures looked beautiful, it wasn't very expensive to go, and I figured I'd better visit given how close I was. I also had some time to kill before I had to meet Shiva in Mumbai to pursue my next project.

I had to wake up at 4 a.m. (something I only do for hot holidays) and was off to the airport at 5. My taxi driver had just woken up I think and needed a few minutes to put himself together. Then on the way he stopped to have a coffee! Seriously?! It's dark, we're on the side of the highway surrounded by a bunch of men and I'm sitting in a car with the window down like a sitting duck. Oops, shouldn't be highlighting this for my mother either. Although driving through the hood in Winnipeg is way more dangerous these days. Anyway, the airport was chaotic and I learned a lesson that for any future flights in India way more time is essential for a stress free experience. The only saving grace, which the new Winnipeg airport should consider with its long security lines, is a ladies only line, as there were way less women travelling, and it was super quick to get through thank goodness.

Once in Port Blair, the hub of the islands, I had to take a ferry to Havelock Island where I would be staying. A 2.5 hour boat ride plus flights made it a 9 hour journey. The ferry was strange in that there were several rows of seats facing a wall and unless you were at the end of the row (which had a tiny window) you couldn't even see outside. So basically you just sit there and stare at the wall ahead of you.

I was in seat #1 directly in front of the air conditioner which turned the cabin into a 19 degree fridge. Yep, great seat. Gotta love the irony of freezing your ass off in India. Then the guy behind takes off his shoes and starts singing, coincidentally my favourite Indian song. Now I don't know the direct translation of the lyrics "Wanna be my Chammak Challo?" but I can guess as I am sure can you. Well given how his feet smelled there was no way I was gonna be his Chammak Challo, I can tell you that!" So I fired up the ol"Ipod to block out his singing and tried not to inhale.

My hotel was right on the beach and my room a "tented cabana" which is a big mother tent on a tile base, with an attached bathroom and porch with rocking chairs and a hammock. Pretty cool concept.

The Andamans are a big honeymoon spot (FML), and also big for diving. I've always wanted to learn to dive but decided against it this time, as I felt it would be more fun to do it with someone someday, plus with my broken toe I was worried about putting on a flipper and making it worse.

The first couple days I didn't care for the Andamans too much to be honest. After the first day I had to move to another hotel for a night (as the first hotel was full) which was a pain and I didn't like the other hotel. On top of that, sure, the water is very blue and clear..but there is basically no beach. So you pretty much had to lay in the little patch of sand in front of the resort which I didn't care for. Then, what is interesting about the Andamans, but not very attractive to the eyes, is that in the afternoon, the tide goes out super far, leaving clumps of coral and seagrass (which looks like clumps of crap), and marooned boats. It's a very strange sight. So it's not very pretty and there is basically no swimming in the afternoon as well. But, it does solve the problem of there being no beach as you can walk forever.

I enjoyed my time in Havelock much more once I was settled back at my original hotel and in my cabana. I found some good coffee and banana porridge (I know, I know, I need professional help), and the seafood was of course great. The days passed with eating good food (I had my best samosas here as well), reading in a hammock, a massage (which was not nearly as good as the last one sans man hands, haha), swimming in crystal clear and warm water, and long walks along the beach. Really can't complain about that.

One day I rented a bike (for $1.50 for the day I might add) and rode the narrow road down one side of the island, enjoying the blue, blue water peeking through the trees as well as typical village houses and farms along the way. It was friggin hot though and the ride turned into 2 hours, nearly giving me heat stroke I think, plus a sore ass (leading to no further bike riding). It was just as well though given the bike was hard to steer straight and I have a hard enough time walking straight so an accident was bound to happen :)

Another day I took a trip to Radhanagar Beach which in 2004 Time Magazine rated one of the Top 10 beaches in the world. Now this was more like it! I'm glad I saw this side as it was very different and better than the other side. The beach was in the shape of a half moon with beautiful, clear water. There was no coral or seagrass in sight. There was a small crowd of Indians when I first got there and very few were in bathing suits. Certainly none of the women. They were in the water in sarees and most men were fully clothed as well. It was bizarre seeing a guy wearing a checkered button up shirt (very popular here) wading through the water as if it was a standard bathing suit. Also interesting is that you didn't see them go farther than waist deep (most didn't even go that far). Then the lightbulb went off that they probably can't swim. Swimming lessons are pretty standard for children to take in Canada but it you think about it, most Indian people would not have that luxury. Which brought me back to many newspaper articles I've read since being here about drowning deaths. It got me thinking..wouldn't it be a great idea for an NGO to focus on teaching children in rural villages or near the ocean for example, how to swim. That would save thousands of lives in India I am sure. If swimming were my passion I'd take it on, so I'm putting it out there for someone else :)

I had to confront my internet addiction in the Andamans because there is no broadband connection and the few satellite internet cafes charge a fortune. In my suburb of Mysore I paid 20 rupees per hour (less than 50 cents) and on the island the cost is 280 rupees (more than $5)! But I guess I am not as addicted as I thought as I didn't get the shakes without connecting daily, and was quite entertained by reading, writing my blog and listening to music. It was a nice time, glad I went, but my humble assessment of the Andaman Islands, is that if you want to go to a beach in India, go to Goa!

Oh and one last thing.. I'm standing in line for the ferry on the way back, in a line of 98% Indian people, when a military guy comes up to me and asks "Indian?" and then stands and waits for the answer (given how close in appearance I am to an Indian person I guess). Kinda chucked at that one.  Reminded me of the time that I was in The Pas and got asked for my Treaty Card at Tim Hortons.(although that was a bit more likely)  :)