It was my first day in Antigua and I walked out of the hotel grinning from ear to ear. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the view of the volcanoes was clear, clear, clear. I felt like the luckiest gringa in the world!
I was dying to have a traditional Guatemalan breakfast (because it comes with beans..and I loooove beans!!), and a coffee too as it's hard to find bad coffee here.
As I walked I was scanning, looking for people that I knew. I was so excited! It wasn't long before I saw my paper lady; a stout grandmotherly looking woman who always wears a frilly apron. I was actually surprised that she remembered me, as we really hadn't chatted very much. "Triste" she responded (meaning sad), when I asked her how she was. And now folks, I hate to start off with a sad story, but here we go...
Blanca (I finally learnt her name) went on to tell me that her 22 year old son had died 2 days before. He had drank a lot she said, and he had died as a result leaving behind 3 children (7, 5, and 3). Even worse was that the children's mother had been killed 3 months earlier. She explained that the children's parents had been separated and that the mother had gone to work in a brothel type place. It was there that she had been killed. And now with the death of her son as well, that left her to raise the children.
I expressed surprise that she was working after such a recent loss to which she explained that she not only had to work to pay for her son's funeral, but to provide for her grandchildren as well. She said that she also wanted to have a mass for her son, but didn't have the 100 quetzales to pay for it. She asked if I could help her. I was kind of caught off guard by the whole thing, so after empathizing with her, I bought a paper and told her that I would see her later.
I went off to have the breakfast that I had been looking forward to, and to read my favourite smut paper. As per usual the first half was all about accidents and various types of killings...you know, the type of breakfast stories that start your day off great!
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| El desayuno con pelos (the breakfast with hairs) :( |
The locals hate this paper because of all of its death stories, but I'm still drawn to it..surprise surprise. I suppose I'm also drawn to hair in my food, as I found not only one, but two hairs in my breakfast.Yuck! But whatever, I wasn't going to let it ruin my day...
I sat there and thought about Blanca and her situation, and I knew that I had to give her the money. How could I not? So later as I passed by, I handed her the 100Q and went on my way..
Now to digress a bit from my first day..I later told Blanca's story to my Spanish teacher Janeth, and was happy to hear her say that she believed her. Apart from Janeth feeling that it was too elaborate to be made up, she said that this kind of story wasn't all that uncommon in Guatemala unfortunately.
Buuuut, since then I am sorry to say that we have both changed our opinion. I say this because Blanca has not been dressed in black in the days since as is custom here, and as well, she looks a little too cheery to be in mourning.
So although the $13 certainly won't break the bank, her "truco" (trick/sham) has left a bad taste in my mouth. Let's just say that Blanca will be selling one less paper from now on.
Now back to my day. After breakfast I sat in the park for quite awhile, reading my death stories, listening to the traditional marimba music, and just watching people. Tons of people were in town from Guatemala City for the weekend and it was a festival-like atmosphere. It was lovely..
Then I caught sight of Maria Esperanza!! Busy at work as usual picking through the garbage can. Attached is a picture I took of her in action. I let her do her thing but later in the day went to talk to her as she sat having a rest. I was so excited to talk to her! Although she said she knew who I was, I'm pretty sure she didn't. I didn't take it personal though given her countless hits to the head. It's no wonder the poor woman has memory issues.
In true Maria form, when I asked her how she was, she responded "aqui luchando" (here fighting). How appropriate. We talked for the longest time, longer than ever before. Although a tad dirty, I could tell that she was well. That infamous smile of hers came out often and she even swayed to the marimba music as it played. She proudly told me that she could dance to all types of music..she's just so cute :)
Nothing has changed...Maria continues to survive by collecting and selling recyclables. Four to five times a week she lugs her many garbage bags on a bus and travels to a nearby town to sell her loot. She tells me that each time she makes about 30-35 quetzales ($4-5). So in a month we're talking about $70. I suspect it's less though as I doubt she has enough to sell that many times a week.
She talked a lot about her faith during this conversation, and about how she prays to God for support. When she finds money on the ground she believes that God has left it for her. Faith can sure be a powerful means of comfort and support to people who really need it. It keeps Maria going thankfully..
Random strangers also continue to help her. I saw it firsthand as we were talking and a group of Guatemalans stopped and offered her their leftover nachos. She graciously accepted. I would say that her being so visible works in her favour, as I think a lot of people know her situation and want to help her. I love that..
After entertaining some locals with our conversation (as I'm sure they couldn't figure out why a gringa would be chatting with a "Bag Lady"), I left, reminding Maria that the shelter would be open the following day and that I would see her then. Then from across the park I sat and watched her sitting amongst her bags and enjoying her lunch :)
Later as I was strolling around, so happy to be back, I ran into one of my favourites, Manolo, the subject of the blog post "A Good News Story" and they guy whose in-laws hate him. I've been in touch with him the most out of all of my shelter friends as he's on Facebook. So he had been awaiting my arrival and it was a lovely reunion..
I quickly turned into a disapproving momma though when he told me that he had been drinking that day. It was obvious as his eyes were red and he didn't look like himself. He told me that he had been doing well in the drinking department but at times the blues got the best of him.
The good news is that Manolo still has his rented room, and the job at the church cafe. Turns out that he is one of a few homeless people selected every few months to work at the cafe in exchange for room and board. If they do well, within a few months they move on to other work opportunities arranged through connections that the foreigners who run the mission have. What's great as well is that the cafe is actually open for Antigua's homeless. A few afternoons a week they can come by for a coffee, snack and a rest.
Manolo is clearly eating better but isn't thrilled with the consequence; a few extra pounds :) He's also dressing pretty nice these days, no longer having to throw his clothes out every few days. He's talking to his dad again too which is a good sign, and overall seems to be on the right track.
Sadly his buddy Walter (the guy that I wrote about who was going to school), is not doing so well. He's inhaling pain thinner now (which he was never into before), is reportedly very thin and was recently in a fight resulting in close to 20 stitches to his eye. Sadly I will likely not see him this time as a result, as he won't be allowed in the shelter in his state. It's very sad.
That evening I found my favourite pupusa lady at La Merced church which every Sunday is filled with food stalls and people. I often ate dinner there on Sundays as this lady's pupusas (which are like a pancake and grilled with fillings like cheese, beans etc. inside) are soooo good, and are a super cheap meal to boot. The Ukrainian in me loves that combination!
It was dark by the time I headed back to my hotel and it had been a full day but I couldn't help but walk along the buildings in Parque Central to see who was sleeping there. I was lucky enough to find one of my favourites from the shelter, Manuelito, a little elderly man full of wrinkles, almost Japanese looking and so cute. He was sitting along the wall, with the cardboard behind his back that he would be sleeping on later. Like Maria earlier that day, he too was eating from a takeout container that someone had given him. His dinner was pizza which he seemed to be enjoying. As we talked about the shelter, the things that he said were just so sweet I wish you could have heard him. He said that he liked the shelter very much; the shower, the food, and the warm place to sleep. It was so obvious how grateful he is to be able to stay there. Awww :)
I kept walking, past Maria, who was awake but lying on her cardboard covered in a blanket. Then a little farther I found Johnathan, the banana carrying guy who I have written about. It was so great to see him! Apart from a new haircut not much else is new with him. He continues to carry his bananas, now everyday, and seems to be in good spirits.
And that was my day..so great, and only the first! Tomorrow is my first day back at the shelter...and I can't wait!!!!!!!!!!
One last thing..have you liked my Facebook page "Karuna in Guatemala" yet? You will find more pictures of the homeless shelter in Antigua, Guatemala, and the people that stay there..as well as lots more!
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