Final Thoughts on Guatemala

Well, I am writing my last blog post while still in Guatemala. It's hard to believe that 6 months have passed (7 since I left Winnipeg). I have no idea where the time went. As the saying goes, time flies when you're having fun.

I've realized over time (perhaps it's one of the many pieces of wisdom that hit you in your 40s), that the best thing to do when you travel is to have low expectations. Being honest I wasn't very excited about coming to Guatemala as there just wasn't anything that jumped out at me. It seemed dull compared to India, where I yearned to return to for the 4th time. But my best friend, who always seems to know what's best for me, gently suggested that I should go somewhere different this time, reminding me that I could always go back to India next time. Thankfully I listened.

On top of my India craving, the travel reports sure didn't help me make the decision to go. I like danger and all...as an example I have great memories of running down a dirt road in Kenya, Forrest Gump-ish in flip flops after shots were fired. And my favourite place to visit when in a foreign country is a prison. But reports of rapes, murders and kidnappings did rattle me a bit. I can admit that. But, thankfully I did further research and glowing traveller forums convinced me to go. I figured that worst case scenario, if I didn't feel safe, I could always leave and go somewhere else..like India maybe  :)

Well I have to say that Guatemala exceeded my expectations..by far actually. After getting a taste of several other Central American countries at the start of the trip, I can say that Guatemala is really unique.


First of all, it is naturally beautiful. If you've had a chance to see my pictures on Facebook you will see rivers, lakes, oceans, volcanoes, colonial architecture, colourful textiles and much more.



Fuego Volcano outside of Antigua




Colonial architecture in Quetzaltenango

 





 While here I visited the most beautiful lake I've ever seen, Lake Atitlan, which is surrounded by volcanoes and simply breathtaking. 

 

 
 









Another standout was Tikal, an ancient Mayan city full of temples and ruins scattered throughout the jungle. It actually surprised me how much I liked it, as I'm "ruined out" after Peru and Cambodia (meaning tired of seeing temples and ruins). They just don't excite me anymore..if they ever did. But Tikal really impressed me with its grand structures and jungle setting.

It was a long journey to Semuc Champey...a series of emerald green pools staggered over a natural limesone bridge in the middle of the forest..but as they say in Spanish "vale la pena" (it's worth it).

I can't leave out the two coasts..the Caribbean side with its Garifuna people and African vibe, and the Pacific coast with its crashing waves, dark volcanic sand and gorgeous sunsets. It was the Pacific (Monterrico) where I released some baby turtles into the ocean..one of my favourite memories. It was also where I fell for a certain Guatemalan..so it will always be a special place to me :)

Livingston (Caribbean coast)

Tapado, a traditional dish from the Caribbean coast..que rico!



Beautiful Monterrico sunset

Freeing baby turtles in Monterrico

Antigua's famous Arc

And Antigua (sigh)..my home for 6 months. Probably the safest place to be in Guatemala with its many tourists and heavy police presence there to protect them. Its a lovely little city with cobblestone streets and colonial buildings alive with different colours. On top of that two huge volcanoes surround the city and they're enthralling with their changing vistas. When draped in cloudcover they're mythical looking, and simply grand when it's clear and their huge cones dominate the sky.

Washing pilas in Antigua

 

Parque Central

I can't leave out two of my favourite Antigua spots; a lovely, tree covered park in the center with its big fountain and benches for lounging. Always alive with people it was a great place to people watch, practice Spanish with the locals or read the paper (Guatemala's version of the Winnipeg Sun filled with news of killings and everything bad in the country, plus of course a "Sunshine Girl" to make the world right again I suppose). The other favourite, the local market, bustling with people and vendors selling everything under the sun. You can't beat the cheap, fresh fruits and vegetables there. I will sure miss my delicious 20 cent avocados :(

Over time you get to know people, like the guys handing you the exact same flyers everyday (and which you throw away 2 minutes later), the servers in the coffee shops, the family running the laundry place. I love the feeling of getting to know a new place, a different world, and becoming apart of that world over time.

Besides its natural beauty one of the things that impresses me most about Guatemala is its rich culture. Despite civil war, increasing  
tourism and outside influences, Guatemalans have been able to successfully retain their customs and traditions.



Pine laid outside buildings on New Years

New Years "gigantes" in the street

 

Indigenous people are the majority here and visible everywhere in their traditional dress. The women are striking in their blouses and long skirts in a plethora of different colours and patterns. The little girls with their miniature traditional outfits are the cutest, as are the men with their cowboy hats.

 

Religion is a huge part of life for people in Guatemala, whether it be Catholic, Mayan etc. Cuaresma/Semana Santa (Lent/Easter) was incredible with its hoards of Catholic worshippers, religious processions and alfombras (carpets) in the streets. For 40 days!! 40 days!! I have never seen anything like it...

 

Alfombras (carpets) in the street

Another highlight on the religious front was my visit to see Maximon, the Mayan God of everything badass. Booze, cigarettes, women..you name it, he's all for it. I was giddy with excitement as I walked into some random person's house, where Maximon lives for a year until he moves again. It was full of candles and flowers with a life size mannequin, Maximon, sitting in a chair, adorned in a cowboy-like hat, sunglasses and bandana (just like I like 'em!). I lit my special multicoloured candle which will surely bring me all kinds of future luck, and poured an offering of aguardiente liquor down his throat as is the custom. Then I just sat and took it all in. He may be annoyed with me but I was too shy to share a cigarette with him as I had also been told was custom, so smoked it outside while processing the experience. Loved it (not the cigarette, the experience..) 

Maximon

 

I have to comment on the sounds of Guatemala as well, especially that of women's hands slapping together which you hear EVERYWHERE. Any guesses as to what from? Tortillas my friends, tortillas, a staple food for Guatemalans, and the only food that the poorest of the poor live on. Tortilla makers (women only) stand in front of a giant grill with an open fire all day making these things. It's so hot and a lot of work, for next to nothing. They sell for 1 quetzal for 4 tortillas (7 quetzales equals a dollar). I certainly couldn't do it..I actually tried it once and it was hard, kinda like riding a scooter. But it's a big business because everyone eats them. You see women sitting day and night at their posts in front of chicken restaurants with their baskets filled with tortillas, wrapped tightly with brightly coloured textiles to keep them hot. All because Guatemalans can't eat their chicken dinners without tortillas, part of a culture that I find so fascinating.

Marimba band

Back to sounds..you can never talk about a Latin American country without mentioning music. In Guatemala you hear marimba bands playing in the streets and parks, as well as any other kind of latin music blaring from peoples' houses starting early morning. In my case the blaring music came from the cantina across the street from my apartment. The same locals drank there from morning till night and in return I got to enjoy a free jukebox selection.

Now back to food, one of my favourite topics!! I had the best tasting chicken I have ever had in Guatemala, never to be forgotten. My favourite was from the local grocery store, akin to the whole BBQ chicken you get from Safeway or wherever. OMG so delicious! Another newfound favourite was tapado (picture above), a coconut based soup with a whole fish, seafood and plantain. You only find it on the Caribbean coast and it's worth the trip! I'm also going to have fond memories of my favourite meal while there of refried beans, french bread, fried plantain and fresh cheese. I'll definitely be re-creating that meal back in Canada! And finally the coffee...it's no secret that Guatemala has great coffee and I enjoyed trying out many coffee shops over the months in Antigua. I sure hope that the beans I brought home last awhile..until my next trip perhaps :)

I'm going to close off by talking about safety given that it almost prevented me from coming to Guatemala in the first place. Well, in a country with a baaad reputation, I'm happy to report that not one bad thing happened to me in 6 months. I didn't always play it safe as DQ Blizzards were calling my name at times and I just had to take the bus to Guatemala City to satisfy my craving. BUT, to my credit although it killed me, I did decide not to visit a prison there given that it's in a crazy dangerous area. So I'm not completely reckless. Despite what one may think from reading official travel reports, there are lots and lots of tourists here and it's easy, cheap and safe to get around. It really impressed me how well set up it is for tourists. I'm really glad that I didn't let the negative travel reports stop me from experiencing this amazing place.

So that's Guatemala, a naturally beautiful and culturally rich country that I will always have fond memories of, and high regard for. I see myself as an ambassador for this country now and hope that my stories and pictures will entice some of you to come and see for yourself one day :)

 

Countryside near Lanquin

Quetzeltenango at night

Mangroves

 

One last sight of Lake Atitlan